Yeah, rotisseries again?!?

[SCJ]

With seemingly renewed, or maybe constant interest in rotisseries I
thought I would throw something out there for the DIYers. The Donnie
and Jason products are no doubt high quality and worth every penny.
However, there are those of us who like to see what we can get done on
our own have others build on our ideas to make something even better.
To that end I don't think I've done anything terribly original here,
rather stood on the shoulders of giants.

A while back I built the $100 black pipe version published here by
pinballmike217. It's served me well for several full restores, so I'm
not sure why I'm pursuing anything more. Probably because I've got a TZ
torn apart and I've got a couple months before Mother nature allows me
to clear it. Anyway I've attempted to come up with something
economical, versatile, mobile, and easy to build. In general those
properties don't play well together.

The result was a finished rotisserie that cost somewhere between
$80-$100 and I collected the parts and built it in an afternoon. For
others to be able to do this just as easily there were no metal bends
or welding required, but if you would like to do so you certainly
could.

The heart of the apparatus is an engine stand. I mentioned this last
week or so in another thread and only one other person thought that
might be a good idea. So, maybe this is only gonna help that guy, but
here goes. I got started by picking up a 1000 lb engine stand at Harbor
Freight. It's currently on sale for $40. They also have a 750 lb
version, but I liked the features of the larger one a bit better.
Here's a link to the product (ITEM 32916-4VGA):

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32916

Basically, you need to extend the horizontal tube and add support
brackets on each end for the playfield. For the extension and the
brackets I used a couple of 5' pieces of galvanized holed angle iron
(Actually I used three 4' sections, but you can do it with the two). I
drilled and tapped for 1/4" bolts, but in hindsight I could have
drilled both sides and used a longer bolts. For the playfield support I
bolted a 2' section of the angle iron directly to the black engine
mounting plate. Just make sure you center it on the plate so when the
playfield is flipped over it will be in the same position. You need to
completely build the other end. I went back to the black pipe. I went
with 3/4" as opposed to 1/2" for the pinballmike version. You don't
really need too many parts, two floor flanges, a 30" section, 90 degree
street elbow, a union, and a "close" nipple. Assembly is
straightforward, one floor flange mounts to the bracket between the
front wheels. The 30" pipe threads into that flange with the elbow on
the other end. Attach the union to the street elbow and finally the
other flange to the union with the close nipple. The second 2' section
of angle iron gets bolted to the flange. You've not got everything you
need to support the playfield. The last thing to do is actually extend
the horizontal support to the correct distance. You want to have 46"
between both ends to hold the playfield. I started by bolting a couple
pieces of angle iron inside the square tube that's meant to house the
horizontal support. The those pieces will be bolted to the outside of
the horizontal support. You can use some clamps to hold things in place
while you measure the distance between the playfiled brackets. Once
you've got the correct distance, just drill and bolt things together.
You'll also need a large (not sure of the size) metric nut to use in
place of the one that was welded inside the horizontal tube. You'll use
that nut to mount the fixed wheel section to the vertical section.
That's pretty much it.

The black engine mounting place is angled slightly so the black pipe
end is elevated, 37" from the ground as compared to 32" at the other
end. I use padded C-clamps to hold the playfield to the support
brackets. I used a bit a grease in the union and the tube that holds
the engine mounting plate. You just need to loosen the union enough to
allow everything to spin freely. I'll be happy to send pics to whoever
wants them and if someone wants to put them up on a website that's cool
as well. I'm sure I've left something out, but it's really a simple
build so I'm sure if you're interested the pictures will be all you'll
need. If you do build this rotisserie, please improve upon it and share
with the group.

-Scott

[Jim D. in TN]

I thought your idea was an excellent one and was investigating the
possibility. It appears you've done all the work. Thanks.

Jim D. in TN

[Jim D. in TN]

Can you email pictures? I'm sure they will help me understand your
description better.

Thanks, Jim D.

[beaver]

Another one made from wood and plumbing supplies:
http://www.edcheung.com/album/album05/pinball/playfield.htm#rotor
Also used by Michel Oversteyns and Chris Hibler.

Edward Cheung CARGPB26

On Feb 18, 7:41 pm, SCJ <scj...@deletethis.charter.net> wrote:
> With seemingly renewed, or maybe constant interest in rotisseries I
> thought I would throw something out there for the DIYers. The Donnie
> and Jason products are no doubt high quality and worth every penny.
> However, there are those of us who like to see what we can get done on
> our own have others build on our ideas to make something even better.
> To that end I don't think I've done anything terribly original here,
> rather stood on the shoulders of giants.
>
> A while back I built the $100 black pipe version published here by
> pinballmike217. It's served me well for several full restores, so I'm
> not sure why I'm pursuing anything more. Probably because I've got a TZ
> torn apart and I've got a couple months before Mother nature allows me
> to clear it. Anyway I've attempted to come up with something
> economical, versatile, mobile, and easy to build. In general those
> properties don't play well together.
>
> The result was a finished rotisserie that cost somewhere between
> $80-$100 and I collected the parts and built it in an afternoon. For
> others to be able to do this just as easily there were no metal bends
> or welding required, but if you would like to do so you certainly
> could.
>
> The heart of the apparatus is an engine stand. I mentioned this last
> week or so in another thread and only one other person thought that
> might be a good idea. So, maybe this is only gonna help that guy, but
> here goes. I got started by picking up a 1000 lb engine stand at Harbor
> Freight. It's currently on sale for $40. They also have a 750 lb
> version, but I liked the features of the larger one a bit better.
> Here's a link to the product (ITEM 32916-4VGA):
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32916
>
> Basically, you need to extend the horizontal tube and add support
> brackets on each end for the playfield. For the extension and the
> brackets I used a couple of 5' pieces of galvanized holed angle iron
> (Actually I used three 4' sections, but you can do it with the two). I
> drilled and tapped for 1/4" bolts, but in hindsight I could have
> drilled both sides and used a longer bolts. For the playfield support I
> bolted a 2' section of the angle iron directly to the black engine
> mounting plate. Just make sure you center it on the plate so when the
> playfield is flipped over it will be in the same position. You need to
> completely build the other end. I went back to the black pipe. I went
> with 3/4" as opposed to 1/2" for the pinballmike version. You don't
> really need too many parts, two floor flanges, a 30" section, 90 degree
> street elbow, a union, and a "close" nipple. Assembly is
> straightforward, one floor flange mounts to the bracket between the
> front wheels. The 30" pipe threads into that flange with the elbow on
> the other end. Attach the union to the street elbow and finally the
> other flange to the union with the close nipple. The second 2' section
> of angle iron gets bolted to the flange. You've not got everything you
> need to support the playfield. The last thing to do is actually extend
> the horizontal support to the correct distance. You want to have 46"
> between both ends to hold the playfield. I started by bolting a couple
> pieces of angle iron inside the square tube that's meant to house the
> horizontal support. The those pieces will be bolted to the outside of
> the horizontal support. You can use some clamps to hold things in place
> while you measure the distance between the playfiled brackets. Once
> you've got the correct distance, just drill and bolt things together.
> You'll also need a large (not sure of the size) metric nut to use in
> place of the one that was welded inside the horizontal tube. You'll use
> that nut to mount the fixed wheel section to the vertical section.
> That's pretty much it.
>
> The black engine mounting place is angled slightly so the black pipe
> end is elevated, 37" from the ground as compared to 32" at the other
> end. I use padded C-clamps to hold the playfield to the support
> brackets. I used a bit a grease in the union and the tube that holds
> the engine mounting plate. You just need to loosen the union enough to
> allow everything to spin freely. I'll be happy to send pics to whoever
> wants them and if someone wants to put them up on a website that's cool
> as well. I'm sure I've left something out, but it's really a simple
> build so I'm sure if you're interested the pictures will be all you'll
> need. If you do build this rotisserie, please improve upon it and share
> with the group.
>
> -Scott

[Stewie Caines]

Can you please post a link to some pictures of your complete rotisserie or
email me some please?

Stewie

[pinballmike217]

On Feb 18, 7:41?pm, SCJ <scj...@deletethis.charter.net> wrote:
> With seemingly renewed, or maybe constant interest in rotisseries I
> thought I would throw something out there for the DIYers. The Donnie
> and Jason products are no doubt high quality and worth every penny.
> However, there are those of us who like to see what we can get done on
> our own have others build on our ideas to make something even better.
> To that end I don't think I've done anything terribly original here,
> rather stood on the shoulders of giants.
>
> A while back I built the $100 black pipe version published here by
> pinballmike217. It's served me well for several full restores, so I'm
> not sure why I'm pursuing anything more. Probably because I've got a TZ
> torn apart and I've got a couple months before Mother nature allows me
> to clear it. Anyway I've attempted to come up with something
> economical, versatile, mobile, and easy to build. In general those
> properties don't play well together.
>
> The result was a finished rotisserie that cost somewhere between
> $80-$100 and I collected the parts and built it in an afternoon. For
> others to be able to do this just as easily there were no metal bends
> or welding required, but if you would like to do so you certainly
> could.
>
> The heart of the apparatus is an engine stand. I mentioned this last
> week or so in another thread and only one other person thought that
> might be a good idea. So, maybe this is only gonna help that guy, but
> here goes. I got started by picking up a 1000 lb engine stand at Harbor
> Freight. It's currently on sale for $40. They also have a 750 lb
> version, but I liked the features of the larger one a bit better.
> Here's a link to the product (ITEM 32916-4VGA):
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32916
>
> Basically, you need to extend the horizontal tube and add support
> brackets on each end for the playfield. For the extension and the
> brackets I used a couple of 5' pieces of galvanized holed angle iron
> (Actually I used three 4' sections, but you can do it with the two). I
> drilled and tapped for 1/4" bolts, but in hindsight I could have
> drilled both sides and used a longer bolts. For the playfield support I
> bolted a 2' section of the angle iron directly to the black engine
> mounting plate. Just make sure you center it on the plate so when the
> playfield is flipped over it will be in the same position. You need to
> completely build the other end. I went back to the black pipe. I went
> with 3/4" as opposed to 1/2" for the pinballmike version. You don't
> really need too many parts, two floor flanges, a 30" section, 90 degree
> street elbow, a union, and a "close" nipple. Assembly is
> straightforward, one floor flange mounts to the bracket between the
> front wheels. The 30" pipe threads into that flange with the elbow on
> the other end. Attach the union to the street elbow and finally the
> other flange to the union with the close nipple. The second 2' section
> of angle iron gets bolted to the flange. You've not got everything you
> need to support the playfield. The last thing to do is actually extend
> the horizontal support to the correct distance. You want to have 46"
> between both ends to hold the playfield. I started by bolting a couple
> pieces of angle iron inside the square tube that's meant to house the
> horizontal support. The those pieces will be bolted to the outside of
> the horizontal support. You can use some clamps to hold things in place
> while you measure the distance between the playfiled brackets. Once
> you've got the correct distance, just drill and bolt things together.
> You'll also need a large (not sure of the size) metric nut to use in
> place of the one that was welded inside the horizontal tube. You'll use
> that nut to mount the fixed wheel section to the vertical section.
> That's pretty much it.
>
> The black engine mounting place is angled slightly so the black pipe
> end is elevated, 37" from the ground as compared to 32" at the other
> end. I use padded C-clamps to hold the playfield to the support
> brackets. I used a bit a grease in the union and the tube that holds
> the engine mounting plate. You just need to loosen the union enough to
> allow everything to spin freely. I'll be happy to send pics to whoever
> wants them and if someone wants to put them up on a website that's cool
> as well. I'm sure I've left something out, but it's really a simple
> build so I'm sure if you're interested the pictures will be all you'll
> need. If you do build this rotisserie, please improve upon it and share
> with the group.
>
> -Scott

Hi Scott,

Good for you, don't let the hecklers stop you from posting. I was
intrigued by the engine stand concept myself. I would love to see the
pictures. Check out "Flickr": http://www.flickr.com/. to post your
pictures. I'm glad my black pipe idea worked for you and made you
want to improve on it. Progress comes from the sharing of ideas and
that's what it's all about. I got a lot more negative comments on my
design than positive ones but if an idea helps even one person it's
worth it.

Mike

[SCJ]

In article <1171855771.375171.13710@k78g2000cwa.googlegroups.c om>,
pinballmike217 <weenerman217@aol.com> wrote:

> On Feb 18, 7:41?pm, SCJ <scj...@deletethis.charter.net> wrote:
> > With seemingly renewed, or maybe constant interest in rotisseries I
> > thought I would throw something out there for the DIYers. The Donnie
> > and Jason products are no doubt high quality and worth every penny.
> > However, there are those of us who like to see what we can get done on
> > our own have others build on our ideas to make something even better.
> > To that end I don't think I've done anything terribly original here,
> > rather stood on the shoulders of giants.
> >
> > A while back I built the $100 black pipe version published here by
> > pinballmike217. It's served me well for several full restores, so I'm
> > not sure why I'm pursuing anything more. Probably because I've got a TZ
> > torn apart and I've got a couple months before Mother nature allows me
> > to clear it. Anyway I've attempted to come up with something
> > economical, versatile, mobile, and easy to build. In general those
> > properties don't play well together.
> >
> > The result was a finished rotisserie that cost somewhere between
> > $80-$100 and I collected the parts and built it in an afternoon. For
> > others to be able to do this just as easily there were no metal bends
> > or welding required, but if you would like to do so you certainly
> > could.
> >
> > The heart of the apparatus is an engine stand. I mentioned this last
> > week or so in another thread and only one other person thought that
> > might be a good idea. So, maybe this is only gonna help that guy, but
> > here goes. I got started by picking up a 1000 lb engine stand at Harbor
> > Freight. It's currently on sale for $40. They also have a 750 lb
> > version, but I liked the features of the larger one a bit better.
> > Here's a link to the product (ITEM 32916-4VGA):
> >
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32916
> >
> > Basically, you need to extend the horizontal tube and add support
> > brackets on each end for the playfield. For the extension and the
> > brackets I used a couple of 5' pieces of galvanized holed angle iron
> > (Actually I used three 4' sections, but you can do it with the two). I
> > drilled and tapped for 1/4" bolts, but in hindsight I could have
> > drilled both sides and used a longer bolts. For the playfield support I
> > bolted a 2' section of the angle iron directly to the black engine
> > mounting plate. Just make sure you center it on the plate so when the
> > playfield is flipped over it will be in the same position. You need to
> > completely build the other end. I went back to the black pipe. I went
> > with 3/4" as opposed to 1/2" for the pinballmike version. You don't
> > really need too many parts, two floor flanges, a 30" section, 90 degree
> > street elbow, a union, and a "close" nipple. Assembly is
> > straightforward, one floor flange mounts to the bracket between the
> > front wheels. The 30" pipe threads into that flange with the elbow on
> > the other end. Attach the union to the street elbow and finally the
> > other flange to the union with the close nipple. The second 2' section
> > of angle iron gets bolted to the flange. You've not got everything you
> > need to support the playfield. The last thing to do is actually extend
> > the horizontal support to the correct distance. You want to have 46"
> > between both ends to hold the playfield. I started by bolting a couple
> > pieces of angle iron inside the square tube that's meant to house the
> > horizontal support. The those pieces will be bolted to the outside of
> > the horizontal support. You can use some clamps to hold things in place
> > while you measure the distance between the playfiled brackets. Once
> > you've got the correct distance, just drill and bolt things together.
> > You'll also need a large (not sure of the size) metric nut to use in
> > place of the one that was welded inside the horizontal tube. You'll use
> > that nut to mount the fixed wheel section to the vertical section.
> > That's pretty much it.
> >
> > The black engine mounting place is angled slightly so the black pipe
> > end is elevated, 37" from the ground as compared to 32" at the other
> > end. I use padded C-clamps to hold the playfield to the support
> > brackets. I used a bit a grease in the union and the tube that holds
> > the engine mounting plate. You just need to loosen the union enough to
> > allow everything to spin freely. I'll be happy to send pics to whoever
> > wants them and if someone wants to put them up on a website that's cool
> > as well. I'm sure I've left something out, but it's really a simple
> > build so I'm sure if you're interested the pictures will be all you'll
> > need. If you do build this rotisserie, please improve upon it and share
> > with the group.
> >
> > -Scott
>
> Hi Scott,
>
> Good for you, don't let the hecklers stop you from posting. I was
> intrigued by the engine stand concept myself. I would love to see the
> pictures. Check out "Flickr": http://www.flickr.com/. to post your
> pictures. I'm glad my black pipe idea worked for you and made you
> want to improve on it. Progress comes from the sharing of ideas and
> that's what it's all about. I got a lot more negative comments on my
> design than positive ones but if an idea helps even one person it's
> worth it.
>
> Mike
>
Mike-

Thanks a lot and thanks for your original idea. I've put the photos up
on flickr.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/91175276@N00/

-Scott

[chibler]

Thanks again Ed for the original idea.
Mine worked great for my recent Getaway shop-out. I'll never try to do
a PF teardown again without using it.

I am considering some mods now that I've used it once. The issue is
with playfields that have parts screwed down with 1.5" of the ends of
the playfield. This prevents me from fully seating the PF on the angle-
iron. I'm considering making some "fingers" that I can bolt to the
angle iron and then clamp the "fingers" to the PF. These fingers would
be about 1" wide and could be bolted to any of the holes in the angle
iron.

My next shop job will be an EM so I probably won't have that issue.
--
Chris Hibler

[SCJ]

In article <1171858228.082129.85870@k78g2000cwa.googlegroups.c om>,
chibler <chibler@charter.net> wrote:

> Thanks again Ed for the original idea.
> Mine worked great for my recent Getaway shop-out. I'll never try to do
> a PF teardown again without using it.
>
> I am considering some mods now that I've used it once. The issue is
> with playfields that have parts screwed down with 1.5" of the ends of
> the playfield. This prevents me from fully seating the PF on the angle-
> iron. I'm considering making some "fingers" that I can bolt to the
> angle iron and then clamp the "fingers" to the PF. These fingers would
> be about 1" wide and could be bolted to any of the holes in the angle
> iron.
>
> My next shop job will be an EM so I probably won't have that issue.
> --
> Chris Hibler
>

Chris-

You're absolutely right. In many cases the playfield hardware will fall
underneath the support. I've just kinda dealt with it in the past. With
this design you can always just elongate the horizontal extension,
section by sliding the ends apart and rebolting, then add the "fingers"
to support the playfield.

-Scott

[Tim Iskander]

Thats very cool!
Im guessing it comes apart for storage easily.
hmmm, where's that harbor freight coupon?
cheers
/Tim

SCJ wrote:
> In article <1171855771.375171.13710@k78g2000cwa.googlegroups.c om>,
> pinballmike217 <weenerman217@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> On Feb 18, 7:41?pm, SCJ <scj...@deletethis.charter.net> wrote:
>>> With seemingly renewed, or maybe constant interest in rotisseries I
>>> thought I would throw something out there for the DIYers. The Donnie
>>> and Jason products are no doubt high quality and worth every penny.
>>> However, there are those of us who like to see what we can get done on
>>> our own have others build on our ideas to make something even better.
>>> To that end I don't think I've done anything terribly original here,
>>> rather stood on the shoulders of giants.
>>>
>>> A while back I built the $100 black pipe version published here by
>>> pinballmike217. It's served me well for several full restores, so I'm
>>> not sure why I'm pursuing anything more. Probably because I've got a TZ
>>> torn apart and I've got a couple months before Mother nature allows me
>>> to clear it. Anyway I've attempted to come up with something
>>> economical, versatile, mobile, and easy to build. In general those
>>> properties don't play well together.
>>>
>>> The result was a finished rotisserie that cost somewhere between
>>> $80-$100 and I collected the parts and built it in an afternoon. For
>>> others to be able to do this just as easily there were no metal bends
>>> or welding required, but if you would like to do so you certainly
>>> could.
>>>
>>> The heart of the apparatus is an engine stand. I mentioned this last
>>> week or so in another thread and only one other person thought that
>>> might be a good idea. So, maybe this is only gonna help that guy, but
>>> here goes. I got started by picking up a 1000 lb engine stand at Harbor
>>> Freight. It's currently on sale for $40. They also have a 750 lb
>>> version, but I liked the features of the larger one a bit better.
>>> Here's a link to the product (ITEM 32916-4VGA):
>>>
>>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32916
>>>
>>> Basically, you need to extend the horizontal tube and add support
>>> brackets on each end for the playfield. For the extension and the
>>> brackets I used a couple of 5' pieces of galvanized holed angle iron
>>> (Actually I used three 4' sections, but you can do it with the two). I
>>> drilled and tapped for 1/4" bolts, but in hindsight I could have
>>> drilled both sides and used a longer bolts. For the playfield support I
>>> bolted a 2' section of the angle iron directly to the black engine
>>> mounting plate. Just make sure you center it on the plate so when the
>>> playfield is flipped over it will be in the same position. You need to
>>> completely build the other end. I went back to the black pipe. I went
>>> with 3/4" as opposed to 1/2" for the pinballmike version. You don't
>>> really need too many parts, two floor flanges, a 30" section, 90 degree
>>> street elbow, a union, and a "close" nipple. Assembly is
>>> straightforward, one floor flange mounts to the bracket between the
>>> front wheels. The 30" pipe threads into that flange with the elbow on
>>> the other end. Attach the union to the street elbow and finally the
>>> other flange to the union with the close nipple. The second 2' section
>>> of angle iron gets bolted to the flange. You've not got everything you
>>> need to support the playfield. The last thing to do is actually extend
>>> the horizontal support to the correct distance. You want to have 46"
>>> between both ends to hold the playfield. I started by bolting a couple
>>> pieces of angle iron inside the square tube that's meant to house the
>>> horizontal support. The those pieces will be bolted to the outside of
>>> the horizontal support. You can use some clamps to hold things in place
>>> while you measure the distance between the playfiled brackets. Once
>>> you've got the correct distance, just drill and bolt things together.
>>> You'll also need a large (not sure of the size) metric nut to use in
>>> place of the one that was welded inside the horizontal tube. You'll use
>>> that nut to mount the fixed wheel section to the vertical section.
>>> That's pretty much it.
>>>
>>> The black engine mounting place is angled slightly so the black pipe
>>> end is elevated, 37" from the ground as compared to 32" at the other
>>> end. I use padded C-clamps to hold the playfield to the support
>>> brackets. I used a bit a grease in the union and the tube that holds
>>> the engine mounting plate. You just need to loosen the union enough to
>>> allow everything to spin freely. I'll be happy to send pics to whoever
>>> wants them and if someone wants to put them up on a website that's cool
>>> as well. I'm sure I've left something out, but it's really a simple
>>> build so I'm sure if you're interested the pictures will be all you'll
>>> need. If you do build this rotisserie, please improve upon it and share
>>> with the group.
>>>
>>> -Scott
>> Hi Scott,
>>
>> Good for you, don't let the hecklers stop you from posting. I was
>> intrigued by the engine stand concept myself. I would love to see the
>> pictures. Check out "Flickr": http://www.flickr.com/. to post your
>> pictures. I'm glad my black pipe idea worked for you and made you
>> want to improve on it. Progress comes from the sharing of ideas and
>> that's what it's all about. I got a lot more negative comments on my
>> design than positive ones but if an idea helps even one person it's
>> worth it.
>>
>> Mike
>>
> Mike-
>
> Thanks a lot and thanks for your original idea. I've put the photos up
> on flickr.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/91175276@N00/
>
> -Scott

[pinballmike217]

On Feb 18, 10:52�pm, SCJ <scj...@deletethis.charter.net> wrote:
> In article <1171855771.375171.13...@k78g2000cwa.googlegroups.c om>,
>
>
>
>
>
> pinballmike217 <weenerman...@aol.com> wrote:
> > On Feb 18, 7:41?pm, SCJ <scj...@deletethis.charter.net> wrote:
> > > With seemingly renewed, or maybe constant interest in rotisseries I
> > > thought I would throw something out there for the DIYers. The Donnie
> > > and Jason products are no doubt high quality and worth every penny.
> > > However, there are those of us who like to see what we can get done on
> > > our own have others build on our ideas to make something even better.
> > > To that end I don't think I've done anything terribly original here,
> > > rather stood on the shoulders of giants.
>
> > > A while back I built the $100 black pipe version published here by
> > > pinballmike217. It's served me well for several full restores, so I'm
> > > not sure why I'm pursuing anything more. Probably because I've got a TZ
> > > torn apart and I've got a couple months before Mother nature allows me
> > > to clear it. Anyway I've attempted to come up with something
> > > economical, versatile, mobile, and easy to build. In general those
> > > properties don't play well together.
>
> > > The result was a finished rotisserie that cost somewhere between
> > > $80-$100 and I collected the parts and built it in an afternoon. For
> > > others to be able to do this just as easily there were no metal bends
> > > or welding required, but if you would like to do so you certainly
> > > could.
>
> > > The heart of the apparatus is an engine stand. I mentioned this last
> > > week or so in another thread and only one other person thought that
> > > might be a good idea. So, maybe this is only gonna help that guy, but
> > > here goes. I got started by picking up a 1000 lb engine stand at Harbor
> > > Freight. It's currently on sale for $40. They also have a 750 lb
> > > version, but I liked the features of the larger one a bit better.
> > > Here's a link to the product (ITEM 32916-4VGA):
>
> > >http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32916
>
> > > Basically, you need to extend the horizontal tube and add support
> > > brackets on each end for the playfield. For the extension and the
> > > brackets I used a couple of 5' pieces of galvanized holed angle iron
> > > (Actually I used three 4' sections, but you can do it with the two). I
> > > drilled and tapped for 1/4" bolts, but in hindsight I could have
> > > drilled both sides and used a longer bolts. For the playfield supportI
> > > bolted a 2' section of the angle iron directly to the black engine
> > > mounting plate. Just make sure you center it on the plate so when the
> > > playfield is flipped over it will be in the same position. You need to
> > > completely build the other end. I went back to the black pipe. I went
> > > with 3/4" as opposed to 1/2" for the pinballmike version. You don't
> > > really need too many parts, two floor flanges, a 30" section, 90 degree
> > > street elbow, a union, and a "close" nipple. Assembly is
> > > straightforward, one floor flange mounts to the bracket between the
> > > front wheels. The 30" pipe threads into that flange with the elbow on
> > > the other end. Attach the union to the street elbow and finally the
> > > other flange to the union with the close nipple. The second 2' section
> > > of angle iron gets bolted to the flange. You've not got everything you
> > > need to support the playfield. The last thing to do is actually extend
> > > the horizontal support to the correct distance. You want to have 46"
> > > between both ends to hold the playfield. I started by bolting a couple
> > > pieces of angle iron inside the square tube that's meant to house the
> > > horizontal support. The those pieces will be bolted to the outside of
> > > the horizontal support. You can use some clamps to hold things in place
> > > while you measure the distance between the playfiled brackets. Once
> > > you've got the correct distance, just drill and bolt things together.
> > > You'll also need a large (not sure of the size) metric nut to use in
> > > place of the one that was welded inside the horizontal tube. You'll use
> > > that nut to mount the fixed wheel section to the vertical section.
> > > That's pretty much it.
>
> > > The black engine mounting place is angled slightly so the black pipe
> > > end is elevated, 37" from the ground as compared to 32" at the other
> > > end. I use padded C-clamps to hold the playfield to the support
> > > brackets. I used a bit a grease in the union and the tube that holds
> > > the engine mounting plate. You just need to loosen the union enough to
> > > allow everything to spin freely. I'll be happy to send pics to whoever
> > > wants them and if someone wants to put them up on a website that's cool
> > > as well. I'm sure I've left something out, but it's really a simple
> > > build so I'm sure if you're interested the pictures will be all you'll
> > > need. If you do build this rotisserie, please improve upon it and share
> > > with the group.
>
> > > -Scott
>
> > Hi Scott,
>
> > Good for you, don't let the hecklers stop you from posting. I was
> > intrigued by the engine stand concept myself. I would love to see the
> > pictures. Check out "Flickr":http://www.flickr.com/. to post your
> > pictures. I'm glad my black pipe idea worked for you and made you
> > want *to improve on it. Progress comes from the sharing of ideas and
> > that's what it's all about. I got a lot more negative comments on my
> > design than positive ones but if an idea helps even one person it's
> > worth it.
> Mike-
>
> Thanks a lot and thanks for your original idea. I've put the photos up
> on flickr.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/91175276@N00/
>
> -Scott- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Scott,

Great work! The pictures make all the difference. I rated your post at
5 stars. The next time I see an engine stand at a garage sale I'm
going to grab it.

Mike

[chibler]

Scott,

Have you had a fully populated PF in your rotissery yet?
I'm wondering if the "pipe" side of the design is going to be rigid
enough to hold firmly when rotating a heavy PF.

I like the idea of wheels. I may have to make some mods to my very
basic implementation to add mobile capability.
--
Chris Hibler

[SCJ]

In article <1171902845.760239.160620@s48g2000cws.googlegroups. com>,
chibler <chibler@charter.net> wrote:

> Scott,
>
> Have you had a fully populated PF in your rotissery yet?
> I'm wondering if the "pipe" side of the design is going to be rigid
> enough to hold firmly when rotating a heavy PF.
>
> I like the idea of wheels. I may have to make some mods to my very
> basic implementation to add mobile capability.
> --
> Chris Hibler
>
Chris-

No I haven't yet. I will say that the 1/2" pipe in the pinballmike
design is quite rigid, albeit a different design. I moved up to the
3/4" pipe to beef it up a bit. The entire setup feels extremely sturdy,
but only time will tell. I suppose you could mount two floor flanges to
the front bracket and bring two pipe sections up through elbows and
into a T fitting before going into the union. I'm up for other
suggestions as well.

-Scott